Has Anything Surprised You on This Trip?

Last night over dinner, Suzanne asked me if there was anything thing that had surprised me during this trip. There have been some things that have surprised me or, maybe more accurately phrased, I now have a better reality of after seeing and experiencing first hand.

Here are some of the things I mentioned:
1. Arabic is one of the predominant languages in Sudan. I just hadn't thought about this, but particularly in Juba, almost everyone spoke Arabic.

2. That being said, I then made the assumption that there would be a larger Muslim population and that I would here a call to prayer from a local mosque. My reality is that I don't even remember seeing a mosque during my time in Sudan.

3. The long drops (pit toilets) were not as bad as I had imagined in Lietnhom. I will normally set my expectations pretty low, which likely helps when facing the long drop. ;)

4. Harun Matuma and Thomas Anei work under incredibly difficult/extreme conditions in South Sudan. And, yet, they are amazingly committed to their work, the communities they work in and the calling God has placed on their lives.

5. The reality of how difficult transport is and the constant challenge it creates. I was told that Harun, although advised not to, walked for 10 hours in chest-deep water holding his laptop on his head in order to get back to Wau from Lietnhom. It was during the rainy season and there was no other way to get to the village. Roads were not accessible. Airplanes could not land. I also learned that during a one-week visit to Lietnhom, Peter Macharia ended up staying three weeks because of no transport. The roads were not passable and flights into Lietnohm were cancelled twice due to the rainy season weather and inability to land a plane. During this trip, which was just before the rainy season started, we drove from Lietnhom to Luanyker to Wau. During the dry season, the roads are not good (this is an understatement) but during the rainy season, they are under water. But besides the roads, there is a general lack of transport vehicles to even use or access when the roads are passable.

Back in Nairobi

We safely arrived in Nairobi on Wednesday afternoon, but I've been delayed in posting here as Internet has been difficult to access (right now, I've got a pretty slow connection at a cyber cafe).

I have to say I think I had a little bit of culture shock upon returning to Kenya... so many concrete structures, so many food choices, in general, so much everywhere!

Yesterday, I visited our program, the Thika Development Community Trust, in Thika, which is about 45 minutes (without jams) outside Nairobi. I had such a great day! Lillian, one of the field officers, acted as hostess taking me around the Thika community to visit clients. I'll post more stories later (hopefully this weekend).

I was able to meet Monica, an incredibly talented seamstress, Jane and baby Joanne (who were featured on our Mother's Day cards this year) and many others.

I could especially relate to a lady named Magdaline. She and her husband are both school teachers but have joined the trust group and taken out a loan to buy chickens and cows. They sell the milk and eggs to help supplement their income and to help pay for school fees. Their oldest son (they have 5 children) is currently attending university to become an accountant. So, how could I relate when I have no children? Both of my parents are teachers, and when I was little, my mom took a side job to also help supplement our family's income while my dad went back to school. Magdaline was such a reminder to me that families are alike, even on the other side of the world.

Our ride back to the guesthouse from Thika last night was interesting to say the least... We hit massive traffic jams and at one point were just sitting in the car for 45 minutes. That's right. No movement. Just sitting. Today when we went back to Thika, we advised the driver NOT to take that same route on our return. He kindly obliged.

I was also able in interview Peter Macharia, Sudan Country Director for World Concern, today in his Nairobi office. We traveled with him across Sudan, but it was today that I finally got my interview. ;)

From the ACK Guesthouse in Nairobi...

Kelli

Our Final Night in Sudan

It's hard to believe that this is Day 9 of our visit to Sudan. Tomorrow afternoon we fly back to Nairobi. I'm still trying to wrap my mind around everything I've seen and heard during these past days.

As we've been traveling across Sudan from Lietnhom to Luanyker to Wau and now to Juba, I've been interviewing a variety of people. Today, I had the chance to talk with Harun Matuma, program manager for World Concern Southern Sudan (one of our consortium partners).

Here's a snapshot of that interview:

It was 2006 when Harun began working in Lietnhom with World Concern after feeling called to work in a conflict zone.

"I have seen great changes in Lietnhom," he said. "I have seen the market grow. We are now giving business loans and providing training on business skills."

There are currently 460 members of the village bank in Lietnhom, and the opening of the bank, a concrete structure in a village consisting of tukals, was celebrated last week.

But, because South Sudan was in the midst of a civil war for more than 20 years, there is a huge need for literacy across the country.

"More than 80 percent can't read or write," Harun said. "And there is a certain level that you can't grow beyond if you can't read or write."

So his hope is to provide the necessary training and develop as many entrepreneurs in South Sudan as possible. Prior to receiving business skills training, many entrepreneurs told Harun that they kept their business records in their hearts, but now they are keeping records in notebooks, he said.

"Entrepreneurship brings new ideas, innovations and creativity," he said. "Where there are entrepreneurs, you can be sure there will be peace. When the community is stable that is when they can do business."

Harun has most recently started working in Wau, also in partnership with the Episcopal Church of Sudan, in order to expand the work that has been happening in Lietnhom. Groups were officially started on Feb. 15. By March 20, there were 10 groups with 15-25 members each. In just two months, $1,500 had been saved by those groups.

"I am happy to be seeing so many lives transformed," he said. "And, we want to expand this program to other states because it has been a success."

So Much To Learn

So here's another understatement of the week... I seriously have so much to learn about South Sudan.

We are still in Juba and today we met with representatives from the Diocese of Juba and then visited two literacy groups that the Mothers' Union trainers have been working with for some time.

During the Diocese meeting, we had the opportunity to talk with Micah Lesowa, who is the Diocesan development coordinator. He recounted the impact of years of civil war in South Sudan and how it had influenced the country's education level. He said women had suffered most with a lack of education but that now is the time to educate as the country is in relative peace.

In describing Sudan's need for education as a bird, he said, "If you only develop one side (men), it's like a bird with only one wing. It cannot fly. We must develop both sides (both men and women)."

In our meetings with the literacy groups, we met women who were going through the Mothers' Union program to learn to read and write and who now have hopes of saving money and receiving small loans. Again, these women were not able to gain an education as children because of war, displacement and instability. And yet, they are now working to gain this knowledge, even as adults.

"It's enough for us to read the Bible," Lesowa said recounting what many of the elderly literacy students say.

Fun Facts from Our Travels in Sudan

1. Slept in a tukal (see photo on right).

2. Got to plant a tree at the bank opening ceremony.

3. Charged the video camera in a tukal.

4. Watched a monkey jump into a man's room at our hotel in Juba. Note to self: Do not leave your room door open!

5. On East African Air, they gave each passenger at no charge two packs of cookies, peanuts and a drink. Yes! On our 2-hour flight from Juba to Nairobi, we were served a box lunch and offered drink refills. Amazing!

6. Walked under the stars in Lietnhom.

7. Was part of a discussion on dowries/cows. (If a man tried to give my parents some cows, I have no idea how they would react!)

8. Gave a photo lesson to Thomas Anei in Wau. Gave a photo lesson to Harun Matuma in Juba.

9. Have met men and women with incredible resilience.

10. Transportation in Juba is amazingly expensive.

11. Spoke briefly at All Saints Cathedral in Juba Sunday morning.

12. Clementina, a Mothers' Union trainer, asked if I was married. I said no. She said she would find me a man to marry, and then I could invite her to the wedding.

13. Have a daily afternoon hydration party, which consists of drinking liquids in hopes of rehydrating myself. This task is more difficult than it may sound!

14. "It Must Have Been Love" by Roxette was a popular tune at the River Lodge in Wau. They seriously played it all the time in the dining room.

15. I definitely heard "Gettin' Jiggy Wit It" by Will Smith from my room in Juba. Nanananananana.

16. Temporarily blinded myself with my own sweat several times in Lietnhom. It was that hot!

17. Juba is crazy expensive.

Photos From Bank Opening Ceremony

Village Bank = Reconciliation + Stability

It's 6:28 p.m. here in Juba, and I've spent this afternoon going through video I took while in Lietnhom just four and five days ago. While listening to the voices of entrepreneurs who have small shops in the market, local government leaders, a local leader of the Mothers' Union, the chairlady of the village bank and others I come away with two recurring themes: reconciliation and stability.

Just one year ago, there was a tribal clash in Lietnhom and the village was burned. Almost completely. But, because the bank is both a concrete structure and has members of both tribes as investors of the bank, it was left untouched. This truth was retold many times during my stay.

One businessman, Deng, had a small shop in the market prior to the clash. When the market burned so did his shop leaving him with virtually nothing. Both his inventory and his monetary savings were in the grass-roofed shop. He estimates his losses were about $2,500. But, he decided to rebuild and start again. Deng said he was only able to do this by selling a goat and taking out a small loan ($75). Now, one year later, he says his business has grown larger than what it was prior to burning.

Because almost the entire village is made of grass-roofed, mud huts, it is an easy target for destruction. For so many their hope is to have a concrete building -- a structure that will withstand clashes, which sadly seem to happen on a somewhat frequent basis. Now, with a new concrete building bank, men and women from Lietnhom and the surrounding areas have a safe place to save their money. If there home/business is burned, they won't lose paper money that was saved under a mattress.

The bank is named "Amat Wuot Community Bank" which means "a union of communities." As Lueth Maluac, senior inspector and county planning officer stated, "It's a bank for all. It has no borders."

At Work in Africa

By Jim Oakes
Five Talents International Board Member
and Business As Mission team leader

I've been in Thika, Kenya, for this past week, training entrepreneurs for Five Talents International. Thanks to the wonders of modern communication, I'm writing this introduction on a borrowed laptop while sitting in the restaurant of the Blue Post Hotel in Thika. Along with John Hutchins from Truro and two other Christian men, we are teaching business basics to about 200 men and women who are hoping to start or improve their businesses by learning basic business skills. As always, I have been struck by the eagerness of these students to learn what we have to teach, and their appreciation for the effort we have taken to be here with them. I confess, however, that I frequently wonder who is teaching whom, as they bring so much to the table.

The Anglican Diocese of Thika is a diocese on the move. Under the leadership of Bishop Gideon, the diocese has quadrupled in size in the ten years since its formation, and is still growing exponentially. The bishop told me this evening that 60% of his clergy are under 40 years of age, and that youthful enthusiasm seems to infect everything they do. The clergy I have met have been energetic, sharp men on fire for God's church, and seem eager to face the challenges ahead of them, numerous though they may be. Five Talents operates here as a partner with the Thika Community Development Trust, and the partnership seems to be working beautifully. Peterson Karanja, the Trust director, is a real visionary who has put together a first class team to manage the growth of the program. In just four years, the program (which operates under a savings and credit model) has gained over 1,400 clients, with more joining all the time.

I asked one of my fellow travelers tonight, a first-timer to Africa, what his dominant impression was of the trip so far. His answer was that he had never before seen the sheer intensity of the students who came to our training classes. They come with significant business skills already, but are eager to polish them, and to pick up additional tips we can offer. It is almost scary how much they soak in what we have to say, and sobering to realize that these are people who will go out and make major decisions about their business operations based in part on what they learn in our classes. Fortunately, we know we have a solid curriculum, and we have ample evidence from past visits that the material we use really does make a difference.

We're off to Uganda next week, and I'm looking forward to meeting old friends there and to repeating our business teaching in Kasese in western Uganda. However, I will carry fond memories (and a few hundred photographs) of the new friends we have made in Thika, and I hope that God will bring us together again in the future. I remind myself constantly that we are small links in a great chain that God is using to help His people, and that many others have gone before us to prepare the soil that is now reaping such a wonderful harvest. I am just thankful that I have been able to witness the incredible difference that microfinance in general, and Five Talents in particular, have made in the lives of so many people around the world, and I am grateful to God for letting me see the miracle at work.

Heat, baby bats and more heat

I'm not gonna lie. Southern Sudan is hot. What is so entertaining to me is that those who live here will very plainly state, "It's hot." My thought ... "That is the understatement of the year."

Today in Wau, it was 105.8. It cools down to around 90 at night, so with no A/C and no fan you just somewhat bake. 

I also was able to enjoy the presence of a baby bat in my room last night. At first, I saw what I thought was a mutated frog on the wall. But, then I realized it was making a high pitched chirping sound and the "mutated legs" were actually wings. Nice. And, I had just tried to jimmy-rig my mosquito netting, so my confidence in its ability to protect me was lacking. I woke up at some point in the early morning to someTHING banging on my door. I'm not sure what it was but I'm thinking it may have been the momma bat. Perfect. Especially since I opted against the rabies vaccine.

Tonight, I'm off to bed in my tent complete with electricity, a fan and a flushing toilet. Ah, for the small pleasures in life! ;)

Kelli

First Village Bank in South Sudan Opens

So much has happened during the past two days... And, what is most exciting, is that yesterday, Lietnhom became home to the first village bank in South Sudan. What a celebration! Schools were closed, a bull and two goats were butchered so that everyone could eat, Sunday school classes performed a song and dance, local and county officials as well as the Bishop, trees were planted and a ribbon was cut!

It was without a doubt an honor to be there.

I was also able to meet several Five Talents entrepreneurs prior to the event. One young man has witnessed the impact of a loan his brother took out. He's hoping to one day take out a loan as well.

One mother of five boys, Ahok, has already taken out two loans. She'd like to take out a larger loan ($300) in order to grow her business and to continue to educate her sons. She is not able to read or write and wants a better life for her children. She is just one example of the bank's 460 members.

Well, I've been attempting to post photos, but am having slow connectivity problems... hopefully I can get them up tomorrow.

Time for me to get to bed!

Kelli

Livin' at The Hotel California ... Such a Lovely Place, Such a Lovely Place

Jambo!

Greetings from Kenya and specifically from ... you guessed it ... The Hotel California in Lokichoggio (also known as Loki), Kenya. Who would have thought?!

After a safe flight from London, we arrived into Nairobi last night, along with the Five Talents Business As Mission team. This afternoon, Suzanne and I met up with our Sudan consortium partners (two from World Concern and two from Integra) and flew to Loki, which I am told is very close to the Sudan border.

Tomorrow morning, we will board a plane again to fly into Lietnhom, Sudan. In about 15 minutes, the six of us will meet to talk about the upcoming days. I am so excited and am anticipating great things!

Oh, as a quick follow-up, I am carrying 18.5 kilos on this 10-day journey ... barely but safely under the 20 kilo limited! ;)

Almost to Sudan...

Kelli

Off to a Great Start With More to Come

We have had a very busy two days in London. Yesterday was filled with various meetings. Suzanne spent a majority of her afternoon meeting with the Mothers' Union representaives while I met with Vanessa Anderson from the Five Talents UK office to discuss communications strategies as well as how to better share information between our offices. Last night, I attended as an art auction event at the Colomb Art Gallery to benefit Five Talents. The exhibit by artist Pip McGarry will be up until Saturday, May 23.

Today, we had the first-ever true Five Talents International board meeting at Lambeth Palace. I always find it so encouraging to meet with our "Five Talents Family" members that reside outside the US. At tonight's dinner table there were all sorts of interesting conversations taking place about past travels, living abroad, development work and a variety of other life experiences. I sat between Rachel Millward the UK Developement Director (who I've met on multiple occassions and always look forward to seeing) and Anne Figge, a Five Talents Fellow who will be heading to Tanzania at the end of of the summer (who I only briefly met a couple of weeks ago when she stopped by the US office when she was stateside).

I am now back at the guesthouse trying to get everything together before heading to the airport in the morning.

In about 11 hours, Suzanne and I will board a British Airways plane and continue onto the next leg of our journey. On to Nairobi!

Joining us on this flight will be a Five Talents Business as Mission team that will be working in Kenya and Uganda for the next two weeks. If you're interested in following their trip, Dan King (aka BibleDude) will also be blogging.

We all arrive in Nairobi on Saturday evening (Kenya time, which is 8 hours ahead of EST) and then on Sunday, Suzanne and I catch a flight to Northern Kenya before flying into Sudan on Monday.

But, before arriving in Sudan, I wanted to make a brief introduction of one of the partners we'll be spending time with while in Leitnhom. (While I have not yet met Thomas Anei, I have only heard wonderful things, and I'm definitely looking forward to an in-person meeting!)

Being born into a country that was in the midst of a 20-year civil war and being forced into the army as a child soldier has only strengthened Thomas Anei’s desire to bring healing and restoration to his homeland.

While working as a child soldier, Thomas, a native of southern Sudan, had a dramatic conversion experience. It was after this conversion that he sought refuge in Kenya and ultimately completed his studies and graduated from seminary.

In May 2007, Thomas attended a Five Talents-sponsored Christian Economic Development Institute in Nakuru, Kenya. As a result of the training, Thomas became a strong advocate for economic development as the mechanism needed for effective Christian witness in order to create a more stable Sudan.

Thomas, an ordained priest in the Episcopal church of South Sudan in the Diocese of Wau, serves as a Five Talents Fellow in Lietnhom. During 2008, he learned how to replicate the community bank model used in Lietnhom in order to start community banks in other parts of the Diocese of Wau.

Time for me to get some sleep. Looks like I might get about 6 hours before my alarm goes off...

Cheers!

Kelli

It's almost here...

In about one hour, I've got a cab coming to my house to pick me up and take me to Rosslyn, where I'll be catching the bus to Dulles.

I actually think I'm pretty much done packing, which has been pretty interesting. For our flight into Sudan, Suzanne and I are each allowed to take 30 pounds. That includes cameras, computers ... everything. I'm estimating I've got about 20 pounds of personal space for 10 days worth of clothes, toiletries, powerbars, etc., and I think I've come up with a solution: rotate the outer layer, have a clean inner layer. So, I've packed two pairs of pants, one skirt and five shirts for my Sudanese outer layer wardrobe. :)

I'm finally feeling the excitement and anticipation again. Up until last night, I've been so focused on other details that I hadn't actually slowed down enough to realize that "I'm leaving today!" Now, as I finish all the last minute details before hopping on the plane, I can't help but have that good, nervous feeling in my gut.

More from the other side of the pond...

Kelli

A Glimpse Into Where I Am Going...

Before leaving the office this evening, I wanted to upload some photos from our program in Lietnhom, Sudan, to give you a feel for where I am headed. Enjoy!

Time

At this moment, I am working on three computers. Typing this blog on my desktop PC, listening to Pandora and updating Five Talents golf materials on my desktop Mac, and loading software onto the laptop Mac that I'll be taking into the field. In the midst of this I'm fielding questions from co-workers, responding to emails and updating our Web site. I have also just created a "Do Not Disturb" sign for my desk in hopes of increasing my ability to multi-task.

Time. Right now, I'm not sure I have enough of it. And yet, regardless of what I do or do not get accomplished before I leave, I'll be on a British Air flight to London at 8:55 tomorrow evening. (That thought, I have to admit, provides both relief and panic! :)

One of our incredibly dedicated volunteers was just in the office. He prayed that Suzanne and I would be open to God's timing on this trip. To know that the Lord may have plans for us that are different than what we have organized or imagined and that we would be open to His leading.

There is definite reality in that volunteer's prayer. Yesterday, we received an email from Peter Macharia, who is the Sudan Country Director for World Concern and one of our consortium partners:

This is to let you know that the flight that was carrying Harun from [Kenya] was unable to land in [Sudan] today due to a very strong dust storm covering the area. They were forced to be brought back to [Kenya]. They will be leaving on Wednesday for [Sudan] and we hope the storm will have cleared. Kindly pray that we will not be affected and our trip will be as planned. Dust storms are common occurrences at this time of the year in Sudan.

This email was just a reminder that even with the best made plans there is always the possibility of change and alternate routes.

As Suzanne and I enter into our final 24 hours of preparation, I'd ask for your prayers that we be good stewards of our time before and during the trip and that would we would be open to the Lord's leading and His use of our time during the next three weeks.

OK, time for me to share my attention with the Macs sitting to my left... :)

Kelli

Six Days

Six Days. A little more than 144 hours. That's how much time I have before boarding a plane and heading east.

I'm not sure I can begin to explain how excited I am... It's been almost three years since I visited East Africa and almost a year and a half since I visited the Five Talents program in Chennai, India, and I cannot wait to get back in the field! Although, at the moment, I must admit that I'm feeling overwhelmed and tired with everything I need to finish in the next 100 or so hours (that is, if I'm taking time out to sleep and eat ;).

Anyway, I'll be traveling with Suzanne Schultz, our director of program, to Sudan and Kenya to visit our programs in both countries. We leave next Wednesday night (May 13) with a couple day layover in London for the Five Talents International board meeting prior to flying into Nairobi and then on into Southern Sudan. We'll get back into the states on June 3.

I'll be blogging my travels here as much as Internet access is available (and hopefully posting photos as well!). I'll provide more travel details in the days to come before my departure.

here we go...

Kelli Ross
Five Talents International, Director of Communications